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Soldering Technique for EYELET BOARD KITS:
Soldering on eyelet board is very easy compared to PCB (printed circuit board).
Most of your solder joints will be made "over the top" of the circuit board rather then from the bottom as with PCB. One of the many nice features of eyelet board is that you can solder from either the top or bottom, so if there isn't enough space for you to get your iron into position on the top side, you can flip the board over and solder from the bottom.
The most difficult part about soldering eyelet board is getting your components to stay in position while you are soldering. There are several "helping hand" products that are available that make this problem much easier to deal with, but you can usually get your components to stay in place by bending the excess lead wires so that they hold them just snug enough to solder.
Once you get your component(s) in place, you simply stick the tip of your soldering iron into the eyelet. Hold it there against the inner rim of the eyelet for about 3 seconds to allow it to get hot and then touch the solder strand to the inner rim of the eyelet. As the solder starts to melt, slowly pull the tip of the iron out, but not all the way out. As you pull the tip out, the eyelet will fill up with solder. You don't want to use too much solder, so add just enough to fill up the eyelet. You should fill the entire eyelet with solder, but don't overflow it. The object isn't to try to solder the components to the eyelet. The eyelet is there merely to act as a "corral" for the component leads. The object is to connect the lead of one component to the other. If all off your component leads are inside the eyelet and it is filled with solder, then there should be good continuity from one component to the next. Once you've made your joint, remove the solder strand first and then the iron. Solder cools very quickly. If you remove the iron first, your solder strand could get stuck to the joint.
Soldering Technique for Printed Circuit Board Kits:
Soldering on PCB may be a little more difficult than Eyletboard, but PCB is not without its advantages. For one, the order in which you add the components is not important. On eyelet board it's best if you add all the components that are joined at a specific eyelet all at once, but with PCB you can solder them one at a time in any order. Although, it's a good idea to start with your smallest components first when using PCB so that they don't fall out when you flip the board over to solder. Another advantage is that it's easier to keep your components in position when soldering. All in all, PCB is easier to work with, but the actual soldering is a little more difficult because you need to be a lot neater. You'll need to learn how to control the solder. One thing that helped me a lot is to understand that molten solder behaves just like water. It has surface tension. You can suck up unwanted solder with desoldering braid just like a sponge because of capilary action. And just like water is repelled by oil unless you add soap, solder will not stick to metal unless you add flux (rosin core solder will already have flux).
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Step 3: Remember that molten solder has surface tension and that capillary action will dictate where the solder is going to go more so than where you actually try to put the solder. The solder is going to want to go where there are 2 or more pieces of hot metal touching. That is why bending your leads works so well. Even if you can't get a nice pretty little solder bead, you will still get a good joint. So the trick to getting a pretty solder joint is placing your iron so that it makes contact with only the lead of the component and the solder pad, but not with the trace. You can see that the solder joint on the right came out very nicely and only covers the solder pad. But the iron was touching a little bit of the trace on the joint to the left, so it's a little sloppy and has too much solder.
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