OK.  So you're all done with the solder iron.  There's just a few
minor things to do and then you're ready to rock out on your
new pedal that you built yourself.

Attatch the Knob:  
You will need a very small flat head screw driver for this.  
Position the knob so it is symmetrical when both full turn
clockwise and full turn counter clockwise is a little tricky.  The
best way to do it is to turn the shaft of the pot (without the knob
on it) full turn clockwise.  Then position the knob to about
where it looks like it should be when full turn clockwise.  Tighten
the brass insert screw.  Then turn the knob full turn counter
clockwise and see if it matches up with full turn clockwise.  If
not, losen up the brass insert screw and adjust.

Put the Lid on:
First bend down any components that are sticking up like
transistors and capacitors so that they are out of the way.  Put
the base plate of the enclosure on.  The edges are flanged so
that both the top and bottom fit securely.  Screw in the 4 screws
with a medium phillips head screwdriver.

Apply the Rubber Bumpers:
This shouldn't be too hard.  Just peel off the rubber feet and
stick them on the corners of the base plate of the enclosure.  
Make sure you don't cover up the screw holes!

You're all done!  Now go play.

Trouble Shooting:

Before you begin trouble shooting, make sure you know what a
rangemaster is supposed to sound like.  The rangemaster is
not a fuzz and it is not an overdrive.  It is a boost.  If you email
me and say, "The pedal works, but I don't sound like Brian May.
 What's wrong?", I'm not going to reply to you.  If this is the first
time you'll ever be using a rangemaster, let me tell you that it's
probably nothing like what you would expect it to be, and you
are probably going to be a little disappointed at first.  But once
you learn how to use it for purposes other than just a volume
boost, you will find that this is going to be one of the pedals that
you just can't live without. All you need to understand in the
beginning is that if the pedal makes your signal louder, then it
works.

Common Problems-

No Sound at all when ON or in BYPASS:  Usually a sign that
you did not wire your jacks correctly.  You probably mixed up
one of the tips with one of the sleeves.  If you are 100% certain
that you wired it correctly check your solder joints at the jacks.

Sound when in BYPASS but no sound when ON:  This
usually means that you wired something wrong with your
footswitch.  You probably mixed up your "in" with your "out".
This is the same cause if the problem is reversed (sound when
ON but no sound when in BYPASS).  If you are 100% certain
that you wired it correctly, check your solder joints on the
switch...particularly lugs 3 and 6.

Pedal works but the boost is weak or doesn't sound
right:  This usually means that your transistor was not
positioned correctly.  Check again and make sure that your
collector is where the collector should be and the emitter is
where the emitter should be.  If you 100% certain that you wired
it correctly check your solder joints.  ALSO!!!! Make sure you
know what a treble boost is supposed to sound like.  If this is
going to be your first experience with a treble boost, you should
know that it doesn't sound at all like what most people expect it
to sound like.


If you've tried these tips and you still can't get it to work, email
me at customersupport@bigtonemusic.com  

It helps if you can supply close up pics of your pedal.  If we're
still having problems the next step is to set up an "instant
messenger trouble shooting session".  If all else fails, send the
pedal back to me, and I'll get it working again.  There will be a
hefty wait time to encourage people to actually try their
hardest...especially if I feel that you didn't really try.  You'll also
have to pick up the tab for the return shipping.